How Outdoor Movement Differs: Adapting to Real Rock
If I had one British pound for every time I heard the phrase ‘I feel really clumsy outside’ or ‘this foothold is the worst thing I’ve ever stood on outside’, I’d have enough money to buy myself a pair of climbing shoes. And these days, that’s a lot of money! Bouldering outside differs in so many ways from modern gym climbing, and the gap is only getting larger! With macros and enormous volumes taking centre stage, crimps and foot jibs on steeper walls fading away, and gym grades getting softer than a chocolate teapot, the transition to outdoor bouldering is only getting tougher.
But what are the key differences? And how do even seasoned outdoor boulderers avoid falling into the trap of not practicing in the right way? Let’s take a look.
Key Differences Between Plastic and Rock
Whilst there are an enormity of differences between rock and plastic, some are undoubtedly more important than others. Modern indoor climbing through its nature often produces big footholds. On rock, holds are often set into the rock, or put in a way by nature so as to make them unusable for a foot. In general, footholds outside will always be worse than those inside. They’re often smaller, have worse texture, less friction and have to be used in ways that don’t involve just pushing straight down. The handholds on rock can have similar properties. They often have a more slick texture, requiring a more active grip, or have so much texture as to damage the skin in an uneven way which plastic doesn’t replicate. Holds outside often require you to use them in ways that are unconventional. This requires a much higher level of creativity and problem solving ability to take holds from unholdable to usable. There is often much more precision required to accurately hit handholds on rock, despite indoor gyms often ‘blocking’ big holds. The way rock forms often means a jump to a hold isn’t possible, and a static or controlled position needs to be found to slow down the move. It’s the difference between watching Daniel Woods and Tomoa Narasaki. It’s pretty clear to see whose style has developed where.
Adjustment Tactics
Here are some key areas to consider placing focus in your practice. Firstly, slow down. Throwing wildly between holds just does not work on (most) boulder problems outside. Even on the ones where jumping is required (Sky V13), a level of precision and timing is required which indoor climbing rarely simulates. Think about training yourself to pause before grabbing holds, and using your legs in ways to create tension and stability to take weight off the arms. Climbing outside requires a lot more in the core. The feet are smaller, and harder to keep on. Find as many small footholds as you can, and practice doing moves with your feet on them. If you can, find small footholds in the gym or put them on your home board. Lastly, think about your grip strengths and weaknesses, and acknowledge the hold types you struggle on outside. It’s likely these are holds you’re just not seeing in the gym. Think how you can incorporate those into your practice or training.
Seasoned Outdoor Boulderers
The key for you guys is to not get led down to the primrose path which is indoor bouldering. Keep your practice and training specific. Use micro pinches, find weird thumb catches, avoid jumping around on the Kilter Board if you’re struggling to keep feet on outside. It’s easy to come out from a training season a level stronger, but a level lower and more bumbly in terms of your movement and tension. Try and keep your skills sharp indoors, not get drawn into a realm that isn’t where your goals are. Otherwise you’re preparing to play Mario kart whilst training for Formula 1.
These are just a few key differences between rock and plastic, and how to negotiate them. Of course there are many more and with infinite nuance. Something for next time!
Keep it real (rock that is),
Eliot.